150 volume

rodin58 · Aquarist Joined: 21 Jan 2007 Posts: 9

I have a CS150 on my 157 gal reef tank with a iwaki rlxt40 pump. The pump is rated at 1100 gph and the overflow at 1600. I have only one 45 in my drain line to get it into my sump and I have had to add a ball valve to cut back my return because the overflow is putting out no where near 1600 gph. I have the overflow sitting flush on the tank so it should be running wide open. anyone have a idea why it's running so slow?

Support · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:55 am Post subject:

Be sure all the air is purged from the inside of the overflow box. Are you running an Aqua Lifter or venturi pump with the overflow? What size tubing do you have between the overflow and the sump? If you plumbed the overflow with less than 1 3/4" tubing, the flow rate will be reuced through the bulkhead.

If the water level is low in the back of the box, the return pump should not have to be restricted. Please make sure the overflow does not have any air pockets in the top channel.

rodin58 · Aquarist Joined: 21 Jan 2007 Posts: 9

I am using a aqualifter pump, the box is level, i'm using 1 3/4 pvc and if I open the iwaki pump all the way I can watch the water level rise and have to cut it back to prevent a flood. The water is about 1/4 in. above the lip of the overflow. Now I did install a stand pipe to stop the noise, but the flow rate did not change from running without the pipe to running with it

Support · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 3:27 pm Post subject:

Do you see any air pockets inside the top of the overflow? It may be possible that the air nipple ihas become loose or not sealed. If so, it can be resealed with superglue gel and the box will flow better.

Otherwise, depending on the stlye of the stand pipe, the flow rate will be reduced from the max rating of the open bulkhead. Can you describe your stand pipe and if the size was reduced at all? Also be sure that there is nothing at the end of the drain line that would slow the water flow through the sump.

rodin58 · Aquarist Joined: 21 Jan 2007 Posts: 9

as I stated, the flow rate was not effected by the stand pipe. it didnt slow down, it didnt speed up which in it's self says something is wrong somewhere. the nipple is secure and clear, and the end of the drain line just dumps into my sump.

Support · Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 11:28 am Post subject:

When the return pump is all the way open, where do you see the water level rise? Is it the level in the main tank or is it rising in the back of the overflow box?

rodin58 · Aquarist Joined: 21 Jan 2007 Posts: 9

the level in the aquarium raises, at first I thought ok....it'll stop before it get's too high..but when the water started running over the center brace I knew there was going to be a problem!

Support · Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 3:46 pm Post subject:

After consulting with the owner, he recommends removing the standpipe and starting up the overflow without it and see if the water level still rises in the tank. The stand pipe will reduce the flow drastically and if used, should be made out of 2" PVC fittings.

The CS150 overflow was slightly redesigned about two years ago to make the c-channel wide enough to handle over 1600gph. The only restriction from the box is the size of the bulkhead that drains water to the sump.

Please let me know what happens when the standpipe is removed and the overflow is strated without it. The overflow should drain enough to keep up with the return pump and the standpipe can be added afterwards.

rodin58 · Aquarist Joined: 21 Jan 2007 Posts: 9

Took the stand pipe off...it had no effect on the flow...it just made it sound like the toilet without it. water level still out of control.

Support · Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:34 pm Post subject:

How high is the water level in the back of the overflow box when you have to shut off the return pump?

Is all the air being removed from the top of the overflow box with the Aqua Lifter pump? Look through the side of the box when starting up to see if there are any air pockets buildiing up inside.

Take a look at the channels that draw the water over the rim of the tank. Is one wider than the other? Can you let me know the measurement of the two channels. If one is more narrow than the other there may be a restriction there.

Please answer all of these quesions so I can figure out what is goin on with this particular model.

rodin58 · Aquarist Joined: 21 Jan 2007 Posts: 9

the water level in the overflow remains the same as the aquarium level raises, the channel width is about 1 in...it appears to be the same throughout and the aqualift does a great job getting all the air out of the box.

Support · Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 3:32 pm Post subject:

If the water level rises in the back of the box along with the level in the tank, the problem is with the drain line. The plumbing set-up in your system is the restricting point. Did you reduce the 1 1/2" bulkhead? The best way to plumb this overflow is to use a 1 1/2" PVC adapter and then attach 1 3/4" flex hose down to the sump. Please look over your plumbing for any reduction or restrictions.

Otherwise, you will need to use the ball valve and reduce the flow from the return pump.

rodin58 · Aquarist Joined: 21 Jan 2007 Posts: 9

plumbing is as follows...1 3/4 adapter into a 19 in. length of pvc, then a 1 3/4 45 to get it under my tank and then into my sump with a 14 in. length of 1 3/4 pvc. no media sock..it just empties into the sump.

Support · Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 6:51 pm Post subject:

What kind of adapter are you using from the overflow to the pvc length?

Is there a reason you didn't just attach the pvc directly to the unit?

rodin58 · Aquarist Joined: 21 Jan 2007 Posts: 9

the adapter is just a standard 1 3/4 threaded adapter that screws into the threaded bulkhead so I can glue the PVC to run the plumbing